Grand Hyatt Hotel Singapore
Date: 23 Feb 2006
Venue: Straits Kitchen, Grand Hyatt Hotel Singapore
Menu: Dinner Buffet ($38+++ Adults), Hawker Food Spread
The Experience:
So much so for the excellent interior design by the renown team at Super Potato (yup, that's the same Japanese interior designer firm that did up mezza9), Straits Kitchen practically did everything to disappoint (in the food section) less the interior, which to be honest, was quite stunning. Straits Kitchen was intended to reflect the culinary delights of our hawker walks found around Singapore. Sadly, it did little to represent our tradional flavours.
Lets take a tour around the different counters where they are distinguished by the region of cooking.
Malay/ Indonesian Food Counter
The charcol grilled satay did quite a bit to redeem this section of the kitchen except that the satay was on the sweet side. It definitely cannot be compared to the smoky burnt satay you get at hawker centres but this was not too bad. I enjoyed the fact that they made an effort to include a charcol grill for both cooking, and heating. Authentic! The rendang was tender but lacked oomph. I would have loved more flavour in the rempah. The chicken curry was a tad too watery. There was grilled stingray and prawns in sambal, which I avoided as it looked way too dry.
Chinese Stir-fry and Roast Meat Counter
Perhaps the most presentable counter, the stir-fried crab was succulent and tasty. The oyster omelet was chocked full of plump and fresh oysters but it simply lack the fragrance (wok hei) of hawker stalls. The crab meat fried rice was bland and the stir-fry vegetables were crunchy but was soaking in sauce. A clear indication of a poorly controlled cooking heat. It didn't help that when I asked whether I could get some freshly stir-fried vegetables (the sign indicated Fresh Stir Fry Vegetables), I was directed to this wok of vegetables sitting in sauce. The roast meats were delightful, not flavourful. The roast duck and steamed white chicken was plump and moist. The roast duck skin was heavenly, given its warm sheen and crispy exterior. It still lacked flavour though. The double-boiled/ steamed soup consisting of fish maw, sea cucumber and a thick chunk of scallop was a definite treat.
Indian Tandoori Counter
An excellent variety of dishes, my brother very much enjoyed the dishes at this counter, accompanied by the variety of pratha, roti and naans made available. Tandoori chicken, fish, prawns abound together with various curries although with inconsistent qualities. The fish cubes (prob bass) was dry and the prawns were extremely salty. The chicken was quite fragrant but I had to moisten it with yoghurt. I tried the paneer but it just didn't have as much flavour as I expected it to have. I definitely wasn't a fan of this counter.
Popiah/ Rojak Counter
The popiah was good standard fare with the turnips crispy and the filling generous. However, to be honest, once you make popiah at home, you're unlikely to appreciate those outside. Somehow, the ingredients just doesn't feel as luxurious. haha...As for the rojak, well, passable. It had lotsa fritters (my favourite) but it didn't wow me. Rojak to me has to taste richly of belachan and has to be of the right sweetness. The sauce has to be nicely balanced and not many places do it well. The vegetables in rojak has to complement the whole dish and not get overly masked by the caramel flavoured sauce. In this case, it did.
Dessert Counter 1 : Chendol & Ice-Kachang
To be honest, never serve chendol when you can't get it right. The ingredients in chendol are simply and yet, easy to go wrong. In this case, it was bad. I had a bowl of chendol that was practically dilute coconut water/milk simply because the coconut cream wasn't lemak at all. Add ice and all you get is coconut flavoured water. So wrong. The ice-kachang was a terrible disappointement to. Kachang, jelly and sweet corn. Good simple ingredients but poorly made. The red beans were mushy, the jelly tasteless and the sweet corn wasn't sweet. 3 of us, and we couldn't even bear to finish one bowl of each dessert. Ouch.
Dessert Counter 2: Ice-cream/ Sorbet/ Gula Melaka Sago & Kueh kueh
I have mixed views about this counter. The mango sorbet was good but we could taste the egg white used in stabilising the melting point of the sorbet. The black sesame ice-cream and coconut ice-cream is a no-no. For good coconut ice-cream, nothing beats Conrad Hotel's Oscars Cafe.
The gula melaka sago was not too bad, except that I put too much gula =) being a sweet-tooth myself. Passable. The kueh-kuehs were weird. Pineapple tarts that tasted rancid (the pineapple filling was as hard, it made a *dumph* sound when you tap it with the back of your spoon. Butter cookies that weren't buttery. Somehow, any nonya would have waved her hands in protest at their kueh-kuehs. The only redeeming factor was their Indian mitthal. That however, is an acquired taste =)
Dessert Counter 3: Fruits
By this time, you would have expected that nothing can go wrong, especially with fruits. Uh-uh. It was luxurious to have persimons and duku at the fruit counter especially since you don't really see them at buffets. Wonderful. But stay far far away from the starfruit. They were terribly sour. Somehow, better to look at then to eat.
Total bill for 3: $132.87
At that price for hawker fare, Straits Kitchen seriously needs to consider focusing on improving its food.
benjamintanjm at 4:16 PM |
Photo courtesy of Delia Smith
Sometimes, the simplest things are the most difficult things to handle. Most of the times, chefs forget the basics. Quite simply in Singapore, Chinese dim sum restaurants do not even execute their har gao and siew mai well enough, not to mention the disappointing desserts. A dining experience has to be complete. You can choose to be consistent or surprising. But never disappoint.
Back to the simplest things. Somehow there is nothing so subliminally comforting as a squidgy smosh of creamy scrambled eggs on hot buttery toast.
DROOL-WORTHY CLOUDS OF SCRAMBLED EGGS
Gently beat 2 eggs, 2-3 tablespoons of milk and a pinch of salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Substitute a tablespoon of milk for a tablespoon of luciously sinful thickened cream for that occassional treat. You won't regret it.
Over an extremely extremely low heat, heat enough oil or butter to thinly coat the pan to prevent the eggs from sticking. I choose a non-stick saucepan and olive oil for its nutty flavour. The choice of oil will affect the flavour of your scrambled eggs.
Pour the egg mixture into the gently heated pan and stir continously making sure you get into the edges of the pan. Toast your bread while at it but keep watching the eggs. I choose wholemeal bread as it holds up better and provides a texture contrast to the creaminess of the eggs.
Use a double-boiler or a water bath to control the heat if your stove fire is too strong. The key is extremely low heat. If you're taking less than 3-5 mins to cook it, it goes out of the pan and into the bin.
Keep stirring non-stop and watch as the bursts of bright yellow slowly transform into a creamy pale smosh of decandence. Once 1/2 of the mixture has formed, it is time to enhance it using smoky flavours such as smoked trout/salmon/cheese/ mushrooms or just keep it plain.
Remove from heat while it is still slightly wet and serve it on the hot buttery toast. The residual heat will continue to cook it and the bread will slowly moisten.
It should have a texture like whipped butter cream. Too wet and you'll end up with soggy toast. But when excellently executed, scrambled eggs are like fluffy clouds bursting with creaminess and flavour. Indulge.
Its simply out of this world, especially on a cool lazy afternoon with a refreshing glass of iced tea.
benjamintanjm at 1:34 PM |
Shangri-La Hotel Singapore
Date: 18 Feb 2006
Venue: Shang Palace, Shangri-la Hotel Singapore
Menu:
BBQ Platter ($24), Shark Cartilage Soup ($18), Dumpling Soup ($18), Har Gao ($4.80), SiewMai ($4.50), Chicken Claw ($4.50), Fritter Rice Rolls ($5), XiaoLongBao ($4.50), Turnip Cake ($4.50), Yam Puff ($4.50), Avocado Paste & Sago ($5), Mango Pomolo Sago ($5), Almond Cream ($5)
Experience:
My first visit back at the Shang after 6 years since their last renovation. The experience was so-so. The desserts was something to rave about but the dim-sum is not as refined as I expected it to be. In short, it wasn't flavourful. Perhaps my tastebuds are adulterated by commercial mass-produced dim-sum but it simply wasn't a memorable event dining at the Shang.
The shark cartilage soup was however, the best I had in town so far, after Ritz-Carlton's Summer Pavillion. Filled with milky goodness, it was served with a massive piece of fish stomach (not the maw), pretty good I must say. The BBQ platter was not too bad either.
Stay far away from their XiaoLongBao. The skin was tough and the interior was dry. The Yam Puff clearly wasn't fried in fresh oil. Despite its crispy exterior, it lacked the sheen and flavour of well made Yam Puffs.
The Avocado Cream was very unique and the smoothness of the cream complemented the sago perfectly. The Almond Cream was refined and fragant probably as good as my all-time favourite, Imperial Treasures @ Takashimaya.
Service was inconsistent. The staff were all extremely friendly and helpful but they lacked attentiveness. I found myself filling up the tea cups more often than I saw them around. Didn't help that I didn't get my water filled up at all after finishing a glass. I suspected they lacked staff but the restaurant was relatively empty, so much so that you could hear the conversation at your next table.
Total bill for 4: $135
A mediocre meal @ a Shangri-la. The ocassional delights.
benjamintanjm at 9:55 PM |